We pay for our Zimbabwe visas and luxuriate our march up to the park entrance, each step with conviction as if we have earned the right to be here. A sign reads “Welcome to Mosi-oa-Tunya Victoria Falls Zimbabwe.” A world wonder beckons beyond this gate.

When Dr. Livingstone first discovered Mosi-oa-Tunya – “the Smoke that Thunders” in the Kololo Tribe dialect – he named it in honor of his queen. It was selfless, patriotic and practical all in one; Livingstone Falls just doesn’t roll off the tongue like Vic Falls.

We pay the US$30 entrance fee and make our ceremonious entry into the park. The first question that comes to mind is that you have entered a tropical rainforest so thick and claustrophobic that it engulfs you in humidity. But that becomes an afterthought very quickly amidst the sheer anticipation and the subtle rumbling of the ground that guides you to where the Smoke thunders. What took Dr. Livingstone so long? This place finds itself. As we venture deeper into the park, the mild sprinkle breaks into a full-on shower – great day to be wearing a flimsy white shirt. The whole park can see my nipples now.

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